2018年2月最好男士著裝 THE BEST DRESSED MEN OF FEBRUARY 201
好吧，頒獎季來到了尾聲，我們1下子看到了很多頒獎禮上的著裝搭配。好吧，大多數(shù)人穿的還是晚禮服。不論是格萊美獎頒獎儀式、英國電影電視藝術(shù)獎儀式還是奧斯卡。他們大多數(shù)依照格式化穿著，我們看到太多的黑色，1點點的午夜藍(lán)和1個完全白色的大融會（明顯Timothée Chalamet先生也不甘示弱），但這些穿搭都沒有甚么特別的地方?，F(xiàn)在，讓我們好好關(guān)注1下，特別是那些并沒有取得1座獎杯，但理應(yīng)為他們帶來的穿搭風(fēng)格稱贊的男士們吧，2018年2月最好搭配以下。
So here we are, at the end ofawardsseason. Shall we just get that whole business out of the way in one fell swoop? OK th鋁廠專用工作服en. People woretuxedos. They wore them at theGrammysand then theBaftasand then theOscars. They played around with the format €€ there was a lot of black on black, a bit of midnight blue and one entirely white ensemble (clearlyMr Timothée Chalametis not one to be outdone) €€ but that’s the long and short of it. Now, let’s move on and pay some attention to a number of men who may not necessarily have found themselves within spitting distance of a golden trophy (and much less won one) this month, but nonetheless deserve to be celebrated for the style and flair they brought to the wintry,Game Of Thrones-worthy proceedings of February 2018.
MR CHIWETEL EJIOFOR
2月26日，Ejiofor在倫敦國家畫廊。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Chiwetel Ejioforat the National Gallery, London, 26 February. Photograph by Mr Ian West/PA Images
這是件很棒的西裝。不管從那個角度看，它都完善的契合了Ejiofor先生的身體，同時也不會顯得過瘦。這主要是設(shè)計師品牌1般都會被明星的造型師們各種挑剔。而從色彩看，這類褐灰色的選擇是奧妙而有趣的，而暖色調(diào)的鞋讓整體色調(diào)有了反差，特別合適出席1些馬會的活動。簡言之，我們希望這位英國演員將在這幾年中取得1些成功，不管未來幾年時尚趨勢將會出現(xiàn)甚么反復(fù)無常的方向。
This is a wonderfulsuit. At every point, it’s clearly been fitted (or altered) to cleave perfectly to Mr Chiwetel Ejiofor’s body, but at the same time it’s not overly skinny. This can be a problem with the kind of designer suits that are often foisted upon celebrities by their stylists. The colour €€ a sort of browny grey €€is subtle yet interesting, and warmly set off by theshoes, a particularly richly patinated pair ofDerbies. In short, we imagine (and fervently hope) that the British actor will get several wears out of this one, whatever capricious direction fashion may take in the next few years.
MR DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN
2月22日，Douglas Friedma在紐約布魯克林造船廠。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Douglas Friedman at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, New York, 22 February. Photograph by MYCM/Famous
我們喜歡這類怪癖的風(fēng)格，1件絲絨的晚禮服搭配1條緊身牛崽褲和1些匡威的Chuck Taylors休閑裝。這1定程度上與胡子有關(guān)，這讓攝影師道格拉斯€€弗里德曼(Douglas Friedman)看上去很有活力。但這也與簡單的配色方案有關(guān)。請注意，有抱負(fù)的紅地毯步行者，在閃光燈的照耀下，天鵝絨的豐富質(zhì)感將會提升全部著裝的品質(zhì)。想必弗里德曼先生知道這1點，這就是為何他會咧著嘴笑。
We like the eccentricity of this look, in which a velvetdinner jacketis worn in a casual way withslim jeansand someConverse Chuck Taylors. It’s definitely partly to do with the moustache, which gives photographer Mr Douglas Friedman a sprightly, knowing look. But it’s also to do with the simplicity of the colour scheme. Take note, aspiringred-carpetwalkers, how the rich texture of thevelvetlifts the whole outfit when illuminated by acameraflash. Presumably Mr Friedman knows this, and that’s why he’s grinning from ear to ear.
MR EMANUELE FARNETI
2月20日，Emanuele Farneti在米蘭時裝周。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Emanuele Farneti at Milan Fashion Week, 20 February. Photograph by Mr Riccardo Giordano Sicki/IPA/REX/Shutterstock
1般來講，“時尚”和“防風(fēng)衣”這兩個詞很難搭上邊，所以你應(yīng)當(dāng)充分利用下1個詞。這就像這樣:這是《Vogue》意大利版的編輯Emanuele Farneti穿著1件厚厚的防風(fēng)茄克。你覺得怎樣?好嗎?不管怎樣,我們要清楚，這張照片的特別的地方在于，F(xiàn)arneti先生讓這件茄克看起來很時興。在這1點上，我們乃至可以把不斟酌茄克的堅固。他仿佛使用了些魔法成功地將這條綠色外套配上了剪裁考究的褲子和棕色的皮鞋。但是，大概這就是為何他們讓他做編輯的緣由，讓我們屈服于他的穿著品味。
You don’t often read the words “Vogue” and “anorak” in the same sentence, so you should make the most of reading the next one. Which goes something like this: here is Mr Emanuele Farneti, the editor ofVogueItalia, wearing an anorak. How did you find that? Good? Anyway, let’s be clear. What’s especially special about this photograph is that Mr Farneti makes the anorak look stylish. At this point, we might even put the word “crisp” out there. By what magic alchemy he’s managed to pair this piece of green outerwear with some tailoredtrousersand brownbroguesand carry it off, we don’t know. But, p麗江工作服定做resumably, that’s why they made him editor. We bow down to his sartorial nous.
MR JOSH O’CONNOR
2月17日，Josh O'Connor在倫敦出席英國電影與電視藝術(shù)獎提名大會。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Josh O'Connor at the Bafta Nominees’ Party in London, 17 February. Photograph by Mr Paul Treadway/matrixpictures.co.uk
你可能會認(rèn)為，出現(xiàn)在各種重復(fù)商標(biāo)的背景板之前，這位演員Josh O 'Connor好像在背后拿著兩包膠囊咖啡。再仔細(xì)些看，原來他是在英國電影與電視藝術(shù)獎提名大會上，而這個姿式恰好顯示出了他的害臊。不管怎樣，他選擇了1件時興但年輕的晚禮服，它取代了傳統(tǒng)的襯衫和黑色的領(lǐng)口毛衣。如果他沒有出席1個頒獎儀式(或，或許是1個喝咖啡的凌晨)，你就會認(rèn)為他是1個很有魅力的建筑師，而且他的審美學(xué)非常簡約。更重要的是，你想要拜托他。我們認(rèn)為，這身搭配證明如何成功選擇1套服裝。
You might assume, given the comparative sizing of thelogoson this step-and-repeat backdrop, that actor Mr Josh O’Connor is holding two packets of Caffè Lungo capsules behind his back. But look more closely. He’s at the Baftas, and the pose is merely rising-star bashfulness. No matter. This is a sharp but youthful take on dinner dress, which replaces the customaryshirtwith a black crew-necksweater. If he weren’t clearly attending an awards ceremony(or, perhaps, acoffeemorning), you’d assume he was some hot-shotarchitectwith a rigorously minimal aesthetic. What’s more, you’d want to commission him, which, we think, can only testify to the success of this particular outfit.
MR PATRICK SCHWARZENEGGER
2月8日Patrick Schwarzenegger在紐約街頭。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Patrick Schwarzenegger in New York, 8 February. Photograph by GoffPhotos.com
對任何能證明你不能追隨時尚潮流，看起來很正常的人，我們會說：“看看Patrick Schwarzenegger先生吧。”看著他，他穿著1雙Balenciaga的Speed Socks運動鞋(流行趨勢:運動鞋)，1件深藍(lán)色的外套(流行趨勢:天鵝絨)和1件寬大的露領(lǐng)毛衣(流行趨勢:超大號)，以1種最自然的方式，出現(xiàn)在紐約街頭的1個角落里。這實際上是有緣由的，他把1切都控制在1種克制的配色方案和明智的選擇量(牛崽褲不太瘦，外套也不太大)。但更重要的是，這位演員/模特讓常常情緒化的時尚編輯們會覺得，我們無停止地把流行趨勢發(fā)布到網(wǎng)上，并沒有顯得徒勞無功。
To anyone who would attest that you can’t follow fashiontrendsand look normal, we would say, “But look at Mr Patrick Schwarzenegger. Look at him.” Here he is, wearing a pair ofBalenciaga Speed Socks(trend: statementsne哈爾濱工作服繡字akers), a deep-bluecoat(trend: velvet) and a voluminous crew-neck sweater (trend:oversized), and carrying it all off like it’s the most natural thing in the world, moseying round aNew Yorkstreet corner. There’s a reason why it works. He’s kept everything under control via a restrained colour scheme and a judicious selection of volumes (the jeans aren’t too slim, the coat’s not too big). But more importantly, the actor/model has made the often emotional team at MR PORTER feel like we might not just be endlessly sending all this trend stuff out into the void of the internet to no avail.
MR SERGEI POLUNIN
2月13日，Sergei Polunin在紐約Calvin Klein 205W39NYC的2018秋冬秀場。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Sergei Polunin at the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC AW18 show, New York, 13 February. Photograph by Ms Kelly Taub/BFA/REX/Shutterstock
這個月，音樂劇《在城里》(On The Town)以優(yōu)雅的形象出現(xiàn)，這是今年2月由Calvin Klein 205W39NYC舉行的時尚秀的亮點之1，這個品牌也就是幾年前的“Calvin Klein”，當(dāng)時打字的時候還可以擠出更多的咖啡時間。從這個品牌的2018春夏系列中，我們可以看到這是1個完全的視角，我們不會在1場關(guān)于Sergei Polunin先生如何費力地將其組裝在1起的空想中動身，并對他這樣做的獨創(chuàng)性感到驚訝，但你必須承認(rèn)這對他很適合。這是1個很好的例子，展現(xiàn)了拉夫€€西蒙斯的朋克式剪裁是如何讓這個品牌的首席設(shè)計師冷靜下來的。
Pirouetting gracefully onto theOn The Townradar this month, ballet’s foremost bad boy was one of the star attractions of February’s fashion show byCalvin Klein 205W39NYC, a brand that, a couple of years ago, we used to just type up as “Calvin Klein” and have more coffee breaks. Seeing as this is an entire look from the brand’s SS18 collection, we’re not going to set off on a flight of fancy about how Mr Sergei Polunin painstakingly put it together and wonder at his ingenuity in doing so, but you have to admit that it suits him. It’s a wonderful example of just how defiantly cool the brand’s head designerMr Raf Simons’ punkishtailoringcan be.
MR TROYE SIVAN
2月20日峰峰有沒有保安工作服，Troy夏季工作服購買申請e Sivan在BBC廣播公司。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Troye Sivan at BBC Broadcasting House, London, 20 February. Photograph by Mr Michael Wright/WENN.com
你將會常?？吹絋roye Sivan的，他是1個非常成功的流行歌手，而且他比你年輕很多。但是，他已知道了什么時候穿1雙“rockabillo”風(fēng)格的休閑鞋，作為1款50年代風(fēng)格的單色造型的1部份，而且讓它同時具有2018年的風(fēng)格。把你從之前的意識狀態(tài)覺醒到后1種狀態(tài)。是的，對這樣的搭配，夏季精品工作服我們也是妒忌。
You will be familiar with Mr Troye Sivan as the man who is a hugely successful popstar who is much younger than you. But are you familiar with Mr Troye Sivan as the man who knows how and when to wear a pair of rockabilly-styleloafersas part of a1950s-tingedmonochromelook that also has something of 2018 about it? Consider this your awakening from the former state of consciousness into the latter. And yes, for the record, we are jealous.
MR WES ANDERSON
2月15日Wes Anderson在柏林電影節(jié)。圖片來源：Mr. Porter
Mr Wes Anderson at the Berlin Film Festival, Grand Hyatt Berlin, 15 February. Photograph by Mr Hubert Boesl/Photoshot
Wes Anderson這身搭配看起來，就像是在Gucci的舒展臺上迷路了1樣，然后走了，直到撞上了1件藍(lán)色的大東西。幾10年來他1直是這樣，說到風(fēng)格，這位導(dǎo)演是1直是領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者，而不是追隨者。因此，如果你是那種喜歡走在潮流前面的人，那末你可以從這套服裝中得到很多建議。黃色的領(lǐng)帶配1件棕綠色的花呢套裝?這可能很快就會成為爆款。你有稍微寬松褲腳的7分褲?如果沒有，趕在在每一個人都買來之前，趕快去買1條吧。
Mr Wes Andersonlooks, here, like he might have got lost on theGuccirunway and wandered off until he hit some big blue thing. But (minus the blue thing) he’s looked like this for decades. When it comes to style, the director is a leader, not a follower. There are therefore plenty of tips you can glean from this outfit, if you’re the kind of man who likes to be ahead of the curve. A yellowtiewith a browny-greentweedsuit? Likely to be a thing soon. Cropped trousers with a slight flare? Get a pair now, before everyone’s doing it.